We started the day with our own makeshift breakfast purchased the night before, then started the drive to Skaftafell. This area has a lot to see including a waterfall I was initially hoping to visit (Svartifoss, the black waterfall), but after looking over the schedule we decided there was just no way to fit it in. So for us today, Skaftafell was merely the meeting point for our glacier tour with Glacier Guides.
We got checked in and picked up our rented jackets and pants (waterproof, of course). Then we also got fitted for crampons and handed ice axes. The axes turned out to be mostly for show on this type of tour, but they definitively made us look cool! After getting all our gear in order, it was time to pile into a bus and drive 15 minutes back the direction we came from. Then there was a 15 minute walk through the glacial valley before we reached the terminal face where we would start our glacier walk.
More prep. One of the guides showed us how to attach the crampons to our boots. These things are really cool. Once you get used to them you can pretty easily walk on even steep surfaces.
Next they split everyone into three smaller groups, then we met another guide who would be taking our group onto the ice. He introduced himself, “I’m Dan, and I’m from England. So, yeah, that’s me.” He didn’t talk about himself much, but he did a nice job of telling us what to expect and how to act on the glacier. In particular, we were instructed to stomp our feet a bit to make sure the crampons really got engaged with the ice. He described several things he thought people might enjoy stomping on: “your mother-in-law, the British Prime Minister, Donald Trump’s face.” (No one here seems to like him very much.)
Finally we were headed up the face of the glacier. Dan led us single file in a sort of lazy zig-zag fashion, stopping frequently. After the second or third stop, I realized he was pausing not to survey the glacier for a safe path, but because a woman in our group had asthma and was struggling. After about the fifth stop, she decided not to continue and we left her in a safe spot. Dan used his radio to call another staff member up to get her then continued on the tour.
Mostly still in our single file line. Asthma lady is on the far left, already huffing.
Our guide Dan explaining something about the crevice.
A view back down the glacier toward the small lagoon and the valley beyond.
Some interesting things to note:
- Interior glacial ice is too dense for the crampons to have much effect.
- But in the summer with lots of sunlight, a crust forms on the surface of the glacier which makes it easy to walk just about anywhere with the proper equipment. I found I didn’t really need to stomp my feet at all and had no problems.
- The steepest point of the main face was probably about 30 degrees. There were steeper points as we neared the crevice field at the height of the tour. Dan used his ice axe to create makeshift steps in those places.
- A Viking push-up involves placing your ice axe over a crevice with water in it, then lowering your face to the water to drink. I did one, but Amber just decided to bend over instead. Boring!
- This glacier is receding quickly. They estimate that the terminal face will be too steep to continue touring here within about four years.
Our afternoon had several stops after leaving Skaftafell.
The first was Fjaðrárgljúfur canyon. No waterfall here, but a pretty deep canyon carved by a river over the years.
Next up was Dyrhólaey. This peninsula has a lighthouse and a few natural arches. We didn’t have enough time to go up to the lighthouse. This shot is actually in the opposite direction back toward Reynisfjara black no beach.
Skogafoss waterfall was impressive. We climbed to the top as well hoping to find a cache, but it appeared to be missing.
Seljalandsfoss falls over an extended cliff edge which means you can walk behind it. We decided not to, as people were getting soaked. I also grabbed a quick cache here.
Within easy walking distance from Seljalandsfoss was another, hidden waterfall called Glúfrabúi. It is the real literal hidden gem at this location. It falls into a wide crevice which blocks it from view until you either enter the crevice or climb up the small mountain in front of it. Walking inside the crevice would leave you soaking wet, so we opted for the latter. The climb was a bit sketchy in places, but we were rewarded with great views of the waterfall.
This shows about half of the climb up. Other portions had chains bolted into the rock to help navigate complicated sections. The last portion around the back side used a five foot 2×4 as a bridge.
Totally worth it! This is only about a third of the waterfall; the rest disappears behind the rock I’m leaning against.